School uniforms are more than just clothing; they are a symbol of youth, camaraderie, and a shared experience. For many who have graduated, the school uniform can evoke a sense of nostalgia and belonging. In China, the evolution of the school uniform is a fascinating reflection of the nation’s social, cultural, and political transformations throughout history. From the earliest forms of student attire to the diverse styles seen today, Chinese school uniforms tell a story of changing times.
Early Forms: Uniforms in the Pre-Qin Dynasty
Students in traditional clothing, resembling early Chinese school uniforms
Poster of a historical drama depicting students in ancient China wearing blue uniforms
The concept of School Uniforms In China can be traced back to the Pre-Qin Dynasty. During this era, education emphasized physical fitness and discipline. Historical records and poems, such as the famous “Blue-Collared Lad” from the Book of Songs, suggest that students wore specific attire. These early uniforms prioritized comfort and practicality, including requirements for suitable shoes, hats, and headwear. This style of dress persisted through the Sui, Tang, and Song dynasties, establishing a tradition of distinct student clothing.
The 1920s: The Dawn of Modern School Uniforms
Group photo of female students in Beijing Peihua Girls' High School wearing early 20th-century uniforms
The Xinhai Revolution of 1911 brought about significant social and ideological shifts, challenging traditional hierarchies and embracing new ideas. The revolution dismantled old class distinctions reflected in clothing, as the saying “people were divided into five classes while clothes were divided into five colors” became obsolete. Inspired by the New Culture Movement, the younger generation yearned for freedom and modernity. This period marked the emergence of the first generation of modern Chinese school uniforms.
Universities like Peking University adopted long robes as mandatory student wear. Gradually, school uniforms evolved into the Zhongshan suit for boys and the Indanthrene-dyed qipao (cheongsam) for girls, signifying a move towards more standardized and contemporary styles.
Illustration of a man wearing a Zhongshan suit, a popular style for school uniforms in the 1920s
Girls’ uniforms in the 1920s were particularly distinctive, embodying a fusion of Eastern and Western fashion. This “May Fourth Youth Suit-dress” typically consisted of a Chinese-style top paired with a Western pleated skirt, complemented by black leather shoes and white stockings.
Nationalist Era: East-West Fusion and the Rise of Cheongsam
Hong Kong high school girls in traditional cheongsam uniforms, showcasing the lasting influence of this style
Macau high school students wearing cheongsam uniforms, highlighting the regional adoption of this elegant uniform style
During the Republic of China era, the encounter between Eastern and Western cultures intensified, influencing fashion trends. Women began to embrace clothing that accentuated their figures. The cheongsam, originally a Manchurian garment, gained immense popularity among young women, including students. Its fitted silhouette, with waist and chest pleats, became fashionable on campuses.
Male school uniforms during this period featured improved versions of the Zhongshan suit, primarily in black and white. These suits were tailored with refined cuts, projecting a modest yet masculine image of a gentleman, which was the prevailing ideal at the time.
1930s and 40s: Cheongsam and Long Robes in Vogue
Compared to standard school uniforms, the cheongsam allowed women to showcase their figures, aligning with the progressive ideals of female students in the 1930s and 40s. The blue cloth cheongsam became particularly popular, almost becoming synonymous with modern Chinese women’s dress after the 1920s.
In contrast, men’s school attire remained more traditional. Long cloth robes worn over trousers, paired with cloth shoes, were common. The long robe was an iconic symbol of intellectuals during this era, famously depicted in Lu Xun’s “Kong Yiji,” where the protagonist is described as “the only person in a long coat and drinking.”
1950s: Simplicity and Uniformity
Following the establishment of the People’s Republic of China in 1949, a sense of national unity and egalitarianism prevailed. Blue and grey became the dominant colors for clothing nationwide, with styles like the Lenin coat and cotton jackets being widespread. The long cloth robe faded into history.
School uniforms in the 1950s lacked a specific, elaborate style. Boys and girls generally wore simple white shirts with blue or black trousers or skirts. This practical and unadorned style reflected the socialist values of the time.
1960s and 70s: The Military Influence
The social and political climate of the 1960s and 70s, marked by significant political movements, heavily influenced fashion. Brightly colored clothing disappeared, replaced by military-style uniforms. Army green became a dominant color in clothing, including school uniforms. Practicality and ideological conformity were prioritized over aesthetics.
1980s: The Era of Young Pioneers Uniforms
With the reform and opening-up policy initiated in the late 1970s, China experienced a period of renewed optimism and change. School uniforms reflected this fresh start. The Young Pioneers uniform became the standard and preferred attire for most students. Characterized by its simple, clean, and unadorned style, often in blue and white with a bright red scarf, it symbolized the dreams and aspirations of the 1980s generation.
1990s: The Rise of Oversized Sportswear Uniforms
The 1990s saw the introduction of oversized sportswear-style uniforms, prioritizing comfort and practicality. Made from polyester and acrylic with a loose fit, these uniforms were often described as “oversized.” Despite their somewhat baggy appearance, they became incredibly popular and were even seen as a symbol of “Hip Hop” culture in Chinese schools, with students sometimes adding graffiti to personalize them.
Interestingly, these Chinese-style oversized sports uniforms have even gained international recognition in the fashion world. The Victoria and Albert Museum in London includes this uniform style in its collection, recognizing its cultural significance within Chinese pop culture.
21st Century: A Flourishing of Styles
Today, there is a growing trend towards school uniform customization. More and more schools are designing their unique uniforms, leading to a diverse and vibrant landscape of school uniform styles across China. This new era represents a departure from the more standardized uniforms of the past, embracing individuality and school spirit through distinctive designs.
In conclusion, the journey of school uniforms in China is a captivating visual chronicle of the country’s history. From the functional garments of the Pre-Qin era to the fashion-conscious and diverse uniforms of the 21st century, each style reflects the prevailing social values, cultural trends, and economic conditions of its time. School uniforms in China continue to evolve, embodying not just practicality and discipline, but also fashion, identity, and a sense of belonging for generations of students.
