During the 18th century, particularly around the time of the American Revolution, a man’s shirt was far more than just a piece of clothing. It was considered an undergarment, a foundational layer as essential as what we might think of as underwear today. To be seen in public in just a shirt was akin to being naked, a significant social faux pas. However, the practicalities of military life sometimes necessitated a different approach, especially for the Patriot soldiers.
For the American Patriots engaged in the fight for independence, the shirt became a ubiquitous garment, almost a uniform in its own right due to its sheer necessity. When tasks required strenuous physical labor, such as the fortification work undertaken during the Siege of Boston in the sweltering summer of 1775, Patriot men would often strip down to their shirts for comfort and practicality. This was a matter of function over formality.
Shirts of this era were notably long, often reaching mid-thigh or even just below the knee. This length served multiple purposes. Primarily, the shirt doubled as a nightgown, eliminating the need for a separate sleeping garment. Furthermore, for many men, particularly those of lower social standing or in military service, a shirt was their sole form of underwear.
The significance of a shirt in 18th-century society is further highlighted by an incident involving Thomas Hutchinson, then Lieutenant Governor and Chief Justice of Massachusetts. Following the Stamp Act Riot in 1765, an angry mob ransacked his mansion. The next morning, appearing at court in only a torn shirt, Hutchinson was acutely aware of his socially vulnerable state. He apologized to his fellow judges for his “naked” appearance, lamenting, “Excuse my appearance, I have no other garment,” before being overcome with emotion. This stark example underscores how fundamental the shirt was to a man’s public presentation and basic dignity.
The shirts worn during the American Revolution were designed for practicality and comfort. They were typically loose-fitting and generously cut to allow for a full range of movement. Fabrics varied, with common choices including linen, cotton, lightweight flannel, and blends of these materials, particularly in New England. These materials were chosen for their breathability and relative ease of care compared to heavier woolens.
Interestingly, the basic construction of a shirt remained consistent across social classes. Whether for a laborer or a gentleman, the shirts were cut from simple rectangles and squares. The distinction lay in the quality of the fabric and the level of detail in construction. A gentleman’s shirt would be crafted from fine white linen or cotton, potentially featuring decorative ruffles and exhibiting superior hand-stitching. In contrast, a common working-class or Patriot soldier’s shirt prioritized function and durability over elaborate aesthetics.
Shirts of the Revolutionary period usually featured narrow wristbands, or cuffs, fastened with buttons – often acting as early cufflinks. Collars varied in height but were generally not as tall as those seen in later periods. These were pullover style shirts, closing only at the collar with buttons, ties made of linen or thread, or a combination of both. Buttons themselves were small, typically around 1/2″ or 7/16″ in diameter, and made from materials like thread, horn, cloth-covered wood, metal, or leather.
In military service, shirts were notoriously susceptible to wear and tear, especially in warmer climates and during active campaigns. For the thousands of Patriot soldiers engaged in prolonged conflicts like the Siege of Boston, clean, fresh shirts were a rare luxury. They often had to endure long periods in soiled and ragged shirts, highlighting the basic yet crucial role of this garment in their daily lives. The humble shirt, therefore, became an unrecognized but vital part of the “patriot uniform,” representing both their practical needs and their shared experience during the fight for American independence.
