The uniforms of the Confederate States Navy (CSN) during the American Civil War were meticulously defined, mirroring the structured hierarchy and traditions of naval forces worldwide. This guide delves into the regulations governing the uniform and dress of CSN officers, petty officers, and crew, drawing from historical records to provide a comprehensive overview.
Officer Uniforms: Undress Coats
The undress coat for sea officers in the Confederate Navy was a frock coat of steel grey cloth, designed to denote rank through variations in lace and buttons.
Flag Officers
A Flag Officer’s undress coat was distinguished by:
- Steel grey frock coat faced with the same fabric.
- Black silk serge lining.
- Double-breasted design with two rows of nine large navy buttons each.
- Buttons spaced 4.5 inches apart at the top and 2.5 inches at the bottom.
- Rolling collar.
- Full skirts extending four-fifths of the distance from the hip bone to the knee.
- One button on each hip and one near the bottom of each skirt fold.
- Cuffs 2.5 inches deep with specific gold lace ornamentation:
- One half-inch wide gold lace strip below and joining the seam.
- Three half-inch wide gold lace strips above the cuffs, spaced three-eighths of an inch apart.
- A three-inch long loop on the upper strip.
- A half-inch wide lace strip from the lower button to the cuff end on the opening’s upper side.
- Four small navy buttons in the cuff opening.
Captains
Captains wore a coat similar to Flag Officers but with fewer lace strips, indicating their rank:
- Identical to the Flag Officer’s coat in material and cut.
- Three strips of lace around the sleeve and cuff, including the looped strip.
Commanders
Commanders’ uniforms further simplified the lace detailing while maintaining the core design:
- Same as Captains’ in all aspects except for lace.
- Two strips of lace around the sleeve and cuff, including the looped strip.
- Three small buttons in the cuff opening.
Lieutenants
Lieutenants were distinguished by a single looped lace strip on their cuffs:
- Same as Commanders’ except for cuff lace.
- One looped strip of gold lace around the upper edge of the cuffs.
Masters
Masters’ coats featured a non-looped lace strip, further differentiating their rank:
- Same as Lieutenants’ except for cuff lace.
- One-fourth inch wide lace strip without a loop around the upper edge of the cuffs.
Passed Midshipmen
Passed Midshipmen transitioned from lace to buttons for cuff ornamentation:
- Same as Masters’ except for cuffs.
- Three medium-sized navy buttons around the upper edge of the cuffs instead of lace.
Midshipmen
Midshipmen, the entry-level officers, had a simplified button arrangement and smaller buttons overall:
- Same as Passed Midshipmen’s, but with medium buttons replacing large buttons on the coat.
Civil Officer Undress Coats
Civil officers, including surgeons, paymasters, engineers, chaplains, professors, secretaries, and clerks, also had specific undress coats, often mirroring the sea officers’ designs but with unique identifiers.
Surgeons
Surgeons’ uniforms varied based on their years of service:
- Surgeon (over twelve years’ standing):
- Steel grey frock coat, faced with the same.
- Double-breasted, rolling collar, nine large navy buttons per row.
- Captain’s body and skirt proportions, black silk serge lined skirts.
- One button on each hip and one near the bottom of each skirt fold.
- Cuffs similar to a Commander’s but with a plain lace strip instead of a loop.
- Surgeon (less than twelve years’ standing):
- Same as above, but with one strip of lace around the cuff and sleeve.
- Passed Assistant Surgeon:
- Same as Surgeon (less than twelve years), but with a quarter-inch wide lace on the cuff.
- Assistant Surgeon:
- Same as Surgeon, but with three medium-sized buttons on the cuff instead of lace.
Paymasters
Paymasters’ uniforms also depended on their years of service, closely resembling surgeons’:
- Paymaster (over twelve years’ standing): Same as Surgeon (over twelve years).
- Paymaster (less than twelve years’ standing): Same as Surgeon (less than twelve years).
Engineers
Chief Engineers and their assistants followed a similar pattern:
- Chief Engineer (over twelve years’ standing): Same as Surgeon (over twelve years).
- First Assistant Engineer: Same as Chief Engineer, but with a quarter-inch wide lace strip on the cuff.
- Second and Third Assistant Engineers: Same as First Assistant Engineer, but with three medium-sized buttons instead of lace on cuffs.
Chaplains, Professors, Secretaries, and Clerks
These roles had single-breasted coats with button variations:
- Chaplain:
- Same as Surgeon but single-breasted.
- One row of nine large navy buttons.
- Plain cuffs with three small buttons in the opening.
- Professor and Commodore’s Secretary:
- Same as Chaplain, but with eight buttons on the breast.
- Clerk:
- Same as Secretary, but with six buttons on the breast.
Vests, Pantaloons, and Shoulder Straps
Vests
- All officers wore steel grey or white single-breasted vests.
- Standing collar with nine small buttons in front.
- Designed not to be visible below the coat.
Pantaloons
- All officers wore steel grey cloth or white drill pantaloons.
- Loose fit to spread over the foot, worn over boots or shoes.
Shoulder Straps
Shoulder straps were crucial for rank identification, with varying designs for different officer grades and departments.
- Flag Officer: Sky-blue cloth edged with black, 4 inches long, 1 3/8 inches wide.
- Gold embroidery (1/4 inch wide border).
- Four stars in line: two end stars (0.6 inch diameter), two intermediate stars (0.75 inch diameter).
- Captain: Same as Flag Officer, but with three 0.6-inch stars.
- Commander: Same as Captain, but with two stars.
- Lieutenant: Same as Commander, but with one central star.
- Master: Same as Lieutenant, but without a star.
- Passed Midshipman: Gold lace strip, 4 inches long, 0.5 inch wide.
- Surgeons: Black cloth straps.
- Surgeon (over twelve years): Two crossed gold olive sprigs in the center.
- Surgeon (less than twelve years): One gold olive sprig.
- Passed Assistant Surgeon: Gold olive leaf at each end.
- Assistant Surgeon: Plain black cloth straps, no leaves or sprigs.
- Paymasters: Dark green cloth straps, following the same insignia as Surgeons based on service years and rank.
- Engineers: Dark blue cloth straps.
- Chief Engineer (over twelve years): Two gold live oak sprigs in the center.
- Chief Engineer (less than twelve years): One gold live oak sprig.
Caps and Buttons
Caps
Caps were steel grey cloth, 3.5 to 4 inches in height, 9.5 to 10 inches at the top, with a patent leather visor.
- Flag Officer: Foul anchor in a live oak wreath with four stars above, gold embroidery, 1.75-inch gold lace band.
- Captain: Same as Flag Officer, but with three stars and 1.5-inch gold band.
- Commander: Same as Captain, but with two stars.
- Lieutenant: Same as Commander, but with one star.
- Master: Same as Lieutenant, but no star.
- Passed Midshipman: Foul anchor without a wreath.
- Surgeons: Olive wreath with gold embroidery, 1.25-inch gold lace band.
- Surgeon (over twelve years): Three stars (0.4 inch diameter).
- Surgeon (less than twelve years): Two stars.
- Passed Assistant Surgeon: One star.
- Assistant Surgeon: No star.
- Paymasters: Same cap devices as Surgeons based on rank and service years.
- Chief Engineers: Same as Surgeons, but with the letter “E” (Old English) in gold below the stars.
- Chief Engineer (over twelve years): Two stars.
- Chief Engineer (less than twelve years): Two stars.
- Second and Third Assistant Engineers: No stars.
Buttons
- Buttons came in large, medium, and small sizes, all with the same design as per official patterns.
Additional Uniform Items
Summer Frock Coat
- In summer or tropical climates, officers could wear steel grey summer cloth frock coats and pantaloons.
- Same style and pattern as regular frock coats, with medium-sized navy buttons.
Jackets
- Jackets could be worn as service dress at sea, except during general muster.
- Steel grey cloth or white drill linen, double-breasted, rolling collar.
- Same number of small buttons as undress coats.
- Open fly sleeve with four small buttons.
- Shoulder straps indicating rank.
Straw Hats
- White straw hats could be worn in summer or tropical climates, except at general muster.
- 6-inch body height, 3.5-inch rim width.
Overcoats
- All officers wore steel grey cloth overcoats.
- Double-breasted, rolling collar, skirts descending 3 inches below the knee.
- Same button arrangement as undress coats.
- No buttons on cuffs or pocket flaps.
- Shoulder straps worn as on undress coats.
- Grey cloth cloaks permitted in boats.
Petty Officers and Crew Uniforms
Petty Officers
Distinguished by sleeve insignia:
- Boatswain’s Mates, Gunner’s Mates, Carpenter’s Mates, Sailmaker’s Mates, Ship’s Steward, and Ship’s Cook: Black silk foul anchor on the right sleeve of grey jackets (3-inch length). Blue embroidered anchor on white frocks in summer.
- Other petty officers (except officer’s stewards and yeomen): Same device on the left sleeve.
Crew
Uniforms for enlisted men were practical and functional:
- Muster Dress: Grey cloth jackets and trousers or grey woolen frocks with white duck cuffs and collars, black hats, black silk neckerchiefs, and shoes (or boots in cold weather).
- Warm Weather Dress: White frocks and trousers, black or white hats, black silk neckerchiefs, and shoes. Collars and cuffs lined with blue cotton cloth.
- Thick grey caps without visors could be worn at sea, except on holidays or muster.
Boatswain, Gunner, Carpenter, and Sailmaker (Warrant Officers)
These warrant officers had more elaborate uniforms:
- Steel grey cloth, lined with the same.
- Double-breasted, rolling collar.
- Two rows of eight large navy buttons.
- Pointed pocket flaps with three large buttons underneath (half-diameter showing).
- Three medium buttons on each cuff, two small in each opening.
- One button on each hip, one in the middle of each fold, and one near the bottom of each skirt fold.
- Collar loops of 3/4-inch gold lace (1.5 inches wide, 4 inches long) with a small navy button at each loop point.
This detailed regulation of Confederate Navy uniforms underscores the importance placed on appearance and rank distinction within the naval service during the Civil War era. The variations in materials, trim, and insignia clearly delineated the hierarchy and roles within the CSN.
