Navy Uniform Regulations: A Historical Overview for US Naval Officers

The establishment of clear uniform regulations is fundamental to military organization, fostering discipline, and readily identifying rank and role. For the United States Navy, detailed uniform specifications have been a part of its history since its inception. This document outlines the regulations for the uniform and dress of officers in the U.S. Navy, providing a glimpse into the sartorial standards of a bygone era. Understanding these historical Navy Uniform Regulations offers valuable insight into naval tradition and the evolution of military dress codes.

Officer’s Coats: A Detailed Look at Rank and Dress

The regulations meticulously describe various coats for officers, differentiating between full dress and undress, and further specifying designs based on rank. These distinctions were crucial for visual identification and ceremonial purposes.

Captain’s Coats

For Captains, the navy uniform regulations mandated two primary coat types: Full Dress and Undress.

Captain’s Full Dress Coat: Constructed from dark blue cloth and lined with white, this double-breasted coat featured a standing collar lined in white and nine navy buttons arranged in two rows. Cuffs were adorned with four buttons on top and two smaller buttons underneath, while the pockets were discreetly placed within the folds. Additional buttons were positioned under pocket flaps, on the hips, and at the skirt folds, completing the formal look.
Captain’s Undress Coat: Also in dark blue cloth, but lined with the same material, the undress coat adopted a more relaxed rolling collar. It maintained the same button configuration as the full dress coat, signifying rank while offering a less formal option.

Commander’s Coats

The navy uniform regulations for Commanders closely mirrored those of Captains, with subtle yet distinct variations to denote rank.

Commander’s Full Dress Coat: Cut and styled similarly to the Captain’s full dress coat, the Commander’s version differed primarily in button count. It featured three buttons on the cuffs and pocket flaps, and a single button in the middle of the skirts, distinguishing it from the Captain’s more ornamented attire.
Commander’s Undress Coat: Following the pattern of the Captains, the Commander’s undress coat was the same cut as the Captain’s undress coat but also featured the reduced button count on the cuffs, pocket flaps, and skirts, consistent with the full dress version.

Lieutenant’s Coats

The navy uniform regulations further refined the coat designs for Lieutenants, introducing specific embellishments to indicate their rank and status.

Lieutenant’s Full Dress Coat: Building upon the Commander’s design, the Lieutenant’s full dress coat incorporated an embroidered live oak leaf and acorns around the collar, a distinctive feature as per the official pattern. This embroidery added a layer of ornamentation unique to the Lieutenant rank within the officer corps.
Lieutenant’s Undress Coat: The undress coat for Lieutenants followed the same pattern as the Commanders’ undress coat, maintaining uniformity in basic style while allowing for rank-specific distinctions in full dress.

Passed Midshipman’s Coats

The navy uniform regulations also addressed the uniforms for Passed Midshipmen, a rank signifying progress and experience within the naval officer structure.

Passed Midshipman’s Full Dress Coat: This coat was similar to the Commander’s full dress coat but uniquely featured a gold embroidered foul anchor and five-pointed star on each side of the collar. The precise dimensions for the anchor and star were meticulously defined, ensuring uniformity and recognizability.
Passed Midshipman’s Undress Coat: Mirroring the full dress distinction, the undress coat for Passed Midshipmen also incorporated the anchor and star collar emblems, maintaining rank identification even in less formal attire.

Midshipman’s Dress Coat

For Midshipmen, the navy uniform regulations specified a dress coat that was a simplified version of the Passed Midshipman’s undress coat.

Midshipman’s Dress Coat: This coat was identical to the undress coat for Passed Midshipmen in all aspects except for the absence of the star on the collar. This subtle difference marked the distinction between Midshipmen and their more senior Passed Midshipmen counterparts.

Furthermore, Midshipmen on duty were permitted to wear short jackets of dark blue cloth. These jackets featured the same button configuration as their dress coats and incorporated a buff cloth anchor in the collar, mirroring the coat’s design in a more practical garment.

Master’s and Second Master’s Dress Coats

The navy uniform regulations extended to warrant officers like Masters and Second Masters, with coats designed to reflect their roles.

Master’s Dress Coat: The Master’s dress coat was similar to the Lieutenant’s undress coat but featured two loops of gold lace on each side of the collar, each loop adorned with a button. These loops served as a clear visual marker of the Master’s rank.
Second Master’s Dress Coat: The Second Master’s dress coat followed the Master’s design but with a reduction in ornamentation, featuring only one loop and button on each side of the collar. This differentiation maintained a hierarchy within the warrant officer ranks through subtle uniform variations.

Surgeon’s Ranks: Coats for Medical Officers

The navy uniform regulations also carefully detailed the uniforms for Surgeons and their assistants, reflecting the medical corps’ integration into the naval structure.

Surgeon’s Full Dress Coat: Designed like a Commander’s full dress coat, the Surgeon’s coat was distinguished by gold embroidery of a live oak branch around the collar and three rows of gold lace on the cuffs. The buttons were placed between the upper two rows of lace, adding to the coat’s ornate design.
Surgeon’s Undress Coat: Similar to the Lieutenant’s undress coat, the Surgeon’s undress coat featured three rows of narrower gold lace on the cuffs, with buttons placed between the upper two rows, maintaining a connection to the full dress version in its detailing.
Passed Assistant Surgeon’s Coats: For Passed Assistant Surgeons, the regulations specified variations in cuff lace to denote their rank within the medical hierarchy.
- Full Dress Coat: Similar to the Surgeon’s full dress coat, but with two rows of gold lace on the cuffs, positioned above and below the buttons.
- Undress Coat: Like the Surgeon’s undress coat, but also with two rows of lace on the cuffs, as in the full dress version.
Assistant Surgeon’s Coats: Assistant Surgeons had further simplified lace configurations on their cuffs.
- Full Dress Coat: Similar to the Surgeon’s, but with only one strip of lace on the cuff, placed above the buttons.
- Undress Coat: Like the Surgeon’s, but also with only a single strip of lace on the cuffs, as in full dress.

Purser’s Coats

The navy uniform regulations provided specific designs for Pursers, the officers responsible for shipboard administration and finances.

Purser’s Full Dress Coat: Cut like a Commander’s full dress coat, the Purser’s coat was distinguished by elaborate gold embroidery of oak leaves and acorns on the collar’s upper and front edges, extending back on each side as per the official pattern. This detailed embroidery set the Purser’s full dress coat apart with its unique ornamentation.
Purser’s Undress Coat: Similar to a Lieutenant’s undress coat, the Purser’s undress coat was specified to be without epaulettes or straps, simplifying the design while maintaining the basic officer’s coat form.

Secretary’s, Chaplain’s, Professor’s, and Clerk’s Coats

The navy uniform regulations also covered the coats for specialized officers and staff, each with specific variations.

Secretaries’ Coat: The Secretary’s coat was the same as the undress coat for Lieutenants but notably lacked buttons on the cuffs, providing a subtle visual distinction.
Chaplain’s Coat: For Chaplains, the coat was of dark blue cloth with a black velvet rolling collar, otherwise resembling the Lieutenant’s undress coat. The velvet collar was a key identifier for Chaplains within the officer corps.
Professors of Mathematics and Clerk’s Coats: These officers wore coats of dark blue cloth with a double-breasted, rolling collar design, featuring seven navy buttons on each breast and additional buttons on the hips and skirt folds. This design was distinct from the rank-specific officer coats, reflecting their specialized roles.

Boatswain’s, Gunner’s, Carpenter’s, and Sailmaker’s Coats

The navy uniform regulations extended to warrant officers responsible for ship maintenance and operation.

Boatswain’s, Gunner’s, Carpenter’s, and Sailmaker’s Coats: These warrant officers wore dark blue, double-breasted coats with seven buttons on each breast, slashed sleeves with three small buttons, and additional buttons on pocket flaps, hips, and skirt folds. This standardized coat design for these roles emphasized their essential functions within the naval service.

Vests, Pantaloons, and Outerwear

Beyond coats, the navy uniform regulations detailed other essential garments, ensuring a complete and standardized appearance for officers.

Vests

Full Dress Vests: For full dress occasions, officers were required to wear white vests made of wool, kerseymere, or cotton. These vests were single-breasted, featuring small navy buttons and a standing collar, designed to be worn without pocket flaps for a streamlined look.
Undress Vests: Blue cloth vests, made in the same style as full dress vests, were permitted for undress. Double-breasted vests, in white or blue with navy buttons, could be worn in colder weather, offering practicality without compromising uniform standards.

Pantaloons

Pantaloons: The regulations specified pantaloons for all officer ranks in white or blue wool, linen, or cotton. White pantaloons were designated for warm weather, while blue was for cold weather or foreign service, as directed by commanding officers. Pantaloons were to be worn over short boots or shoes with white stockings, maintaining a consistent lower body uniform. The regulations strictly prohibited mixed or non-navy colors for coats, jackets, vests, and pantaloons when on duty.

Epaulettes and Shoulder Straps

Epaulettes: Only Captains, Commanders, and Lieutenants were authorized to wear epaulettes, signifying their commissioned officer status. These were made of gilt gold bullion with specific dimensions and plain straps. Rank was further indicated by devices on the epaulette straps:
- Captains commanding squadrons wore a silver anchor, eagle, and star.
- Captains wore the anchor and eagle, without the star.
- Commanders wore the standard epaulette without strap devices.
- Lieutenants wore a single epaulette on the right shoulder, of the Commander’s pattern. Epaulettes were always to be worn with swords when officers were away from the ship.
Shoulder Straps: All officers entitled to wear epaulettes were also required to wear shoulder straps on both full dress and undress coats. These straps varied by rank, using blue cloth and gold embroidery for Captains, gold lace for Commanders, and a single gold lace strap for Lieutenants, providing consistent rank visibility even without epaulettes.

Buttons, Cravats, and Headwear

The navy uniform regulations extended to smaller but crucial details like buttons, neckwear, and hats, completing the officer’s uniform.

Buttons: Navy buttons were standardized in two sizes, large and small, with specific forms and arrangements dictated by official patterns, ensuring uniformity across all uniforms.
Cravats or Stocks: All officers were required to wear black silk cravats or stocks, with a white shirt collar visible above. Colored or checked shirts were explicitly prohibited, maintaining a formal and uniform appearance.
Cocked Hats and Caps: Headwear varied by rank and dress formality.
- Cocked Hats: Black cocked hats were for full dress, worn by all officers except certain warrant officers and staff. These hats had specific dimensions and were adorned with black bindings, gold and blue bullion tassels, a black silk cockade, and a small navy button. Rank distinctions were indicated by loops over the cockade, with Captains and Commanders wearing more elaborate gold bullion loops than Lieutenants and other officers. Civil officers wore gold lace loops.
- Blue Cloth Caps: Blue cloth caps were worn by those not entitled to cocked hats. For undress uniform, officers entitled to cocked hats could opt for caps. Commissioned officers wore gold lace bands on their caps, while Passed and other Midshipmen had anchor and star or anchor emblems on their caps. Other officers wore plain caps or with black silk bands.

Swords, Belts, and Overcoats

Completing the navy uniform regulations were specifications for swords, belts, and outerwear, ensuring officers were appropriately equipped and dressed for all conditions.

Swords and Belts: Officers’ swords were to be cut and thrust type, with specific blade dimensions and white grips. Scabbards were black leather with yellow gilt mountings. Belts varied by dress: white webbing for full dress and black leather for undress, both with yellow gilt mountings and worn under the vest. Swords were mandatory with uniforms when away from the ship on duty or on foreign leave.
Over Coats, or Pea Jackets: For outerwear, officers could wear overcoats or pea jackets of dark blue pilot cloth or similar material. These garments were to reach mid-calf and feature buttons like the undress coat of the wearer’s rank. Shoulder straps were to be worn on overcoats, but epaulettes were prohibited with these garments.

General Uniform Regulations and Petty Officer Distinctions

The navy uniform regulations also included general guidelines and distinctions for petty officers, ensuring comprehensive coverage of naval dress standards.

General Uniform Wear: Uniforms were mandatory for officers on duty at any naval vessel, yard, station, recruiting service, or hospital, unless specifically excused. Officers were required to wear either full dress or undress in its entirety and were prohibited from mixing uniform parts with civilian clothing. Commanding officers could specify white or blue pantaloons to ensure uniformity within their command. Uniforms were required for official visits to the President or Secretary of the Navy, and for court-martial or inquiry duties. Undress uniform was standard for courts and boards of examination unless full dress was specifically ordered. Uniform wear was prohibited while suspended from duty, and discouraged during furlough except for special occasions.
Petty Officer Marks of Distinction: Petty officers were distinguished by specific insignia worn on their sleeves. Boatswain’s mates, gunners’ mates, and similar roles wore an eagle and anchor on the right sleeve, while quartermasters, quarter gunners, and similar roles wore the same on the left sleeve. These emblems were of a standardized pattern and color-coded to contrast with the garment color.
Seamen’s Uniform: The regulations also briefly outlined the clothing for seamen, ordinary seamen, landsmen, and boys, specifying blue woolen frocks or jackets and trousers for muster, with variations for warm and cold weather. Hair was to be kept short, and beard regulations were also defined, allowing only for limited whiskers.

These detailed navy uniform regulations underscore the importance of visual distinction and standardized appearance within the 19th-century US Navy. They not only served practical purposes of identification and discipline but also reflected the hierarchical structure and traditions of naval service. Understanding these historical regulations provides a rich context for appreciating the evolution of modern navy uniform regulations and the enduring principles of naval dress.