During the 18th century, particularly around the time of the American Revolution, a man’s shirt held a vastly different significance than it does today. It wasn’t merely an outer garment; it was considered underwear. To appear in public clad only in a shirt, without a waistcoat or jacket, was akin to being “naked” by the societal standards of the 1700s. This perspective highlights the fundamental role of shirts in the wardrobes of men during this pivotal period.
This concept of the shirt as a foundational garment is exemplified by historical accounts. When Lieutenant Governor Thomas Hutchinson’s mansion was attacked during the Stamp Act Riot in 1765, the destruction of his clothing left him deeply humiliated. Appearing at court in only a torn shirt, he apologized for his “naked” state, underscoring the essential nature of a complete set of clothing, even for undergarments like shirts, in maintaining decorum and social standing.
Shirts of the American Revolution era were designed with practicality and comfort in mind. Their length, often extending to mid-thigh or just below the knee, served a dual purpose. They functioned not only as daytime wear but also as nightshirts. For many men, a shirt was the sole undergarment they possessed, making its length and coverage all the more crucial. The cut of these shirts was universally rectangular and square, ensuring ease of movement and a loose fit, vital for the physical demands of 18th-century life.
The fabric and detailing of a shirt, however, did denote social status. While the basic construction remained consistent across social classes, a gentleman’s shirt would be distinguished by finer materials such as bleached white linen or high-quality cotton. Elaborate ruffles might be added as embellishments, and the craftsmanship, particularly the hand stitching, would be of superior quality compared to shirts worn by the working class. For everyday wear and for those of lower social standing, shirts were commonly made from more readily available and less expensive materials like linen, cotton, lightweight flannel, or blended fabrics, often in plain, checked, or striped patterns. These fabrics were especially common in regions like New England.
Shirt styles during the American Revolution featured specific characteristics. Wristbands, or cuffs, were typically narrow and fastened with wrist buttons, often referred to as cufflinks. Collars varied in height but were generally less tall than the dramatically high collars that became fashionable in the late 1790s and early 19th centuries. Shirts were designed as pullovers, closing only at the collar. Unlike later shirt designs, they lacked front plackets or buttons extending down the chest. Closures at the collar utilized buttons, linen or thread ties, or a combination of buttons and loops made of linen or thread. Buttons themselves were small, typically around 1/2″ or 7/16″ in diameter, and crafted from diverse materials including thread, horn, cloth-covered wood, metal, or leather.
In the context of military service during the American Revolution, shirts took on an even more utilitarian role. Military tasks often required men to work in just their shirts for comfort and ease of movement, as seen with Patriot soldiers during the Siege of Boston in 1775. Shirts were notoriously prone to wear and tear, especially during active campaigns and in warmer weather. For the thousands of Patriot soldiers engaged in the Siege of Boston and other campaigns of the American Revolution, a clean, new shirt was an infrequent luxury. They often had to make do with shirts that were dirty and ragged, highlighting the challenging conditions and logistical constraints faced by soldiers during the fight for independence. The humble shirt, therefore, became an essential, albeit often overlooked, component of the American Revolution “uniform,” reflecting both the daily life and the hardships of the soldiers who wore them.
