The First World War marked a significant turning point for the United States Navy, not just in terms of its expanding role on the global stage, but also in the evolution of its uniforms. As the US prepared to engage in the European conflict, the need to augment its forces led to the establishment of the Naval Reserve in 1915. This expansion, coupled with technological advancements like naval aviation, brought about changes in uniform regulations and introduced new categories of naval personnel, including women. This article delves into the intricacies of the Ww1 Us Navy Uniform, exploring the diverse styles, regulations, and the historical context that shaped them.
The Genesis of the Naval Reserve and the “Yeomanettes”
Recognizing the impending need for a larger naval force, the US Congress authorized the creation of the Naval Reserve in 1915. Initially limited to prior Navy personnel, the Naval Appropriations Act of 1916 broadened enrollment to include individuals with valuable wartime skills. This act also officially established the Naval Flying Corps, acknowledging the growing importance of aviation. The Naval Reserve played a crucial role in both World Wars and beyond, significantly contributing to the Navy’s successes.
A notable aspect of the Reserve legislation was its lack of gender restrictions. This allowed women to enlist during World War I, primarily in clerical roles. These women were assigned the rating Yeoman (F), and were informally known as “Yeomanettes.” While their service was initially curtailed after WWI, the need for personnel during World War II led to the reinstatement of women in the Naval Reserve in 1942, paving the way for their permanent integration into the Regular Navy in 1948.
Image alt text: Yeomanette Second Class Petty Officer in blue Norfolk style uniform, representing women’s contributions to the US Navy during WW1.
Decoding the Yeomanette Uniform
The “Yeomanette” uniform, officially for the “Enrolled Women of the Naval Reserve Force,” was defined by Change 15 to the 1913 Navy Uniform Regulations, issued between October 1917 and January 1918. It was a distinctive and practical ensemble, designed for service while reflecting the fashion trends of the era.
The uniform featured Norfolk-style coats, available in blue for winter and white for summer. These single-breasted coats had two lower patch pockets, pleats in the front and back, and a belted waist, fastened with standard gilt Navy buttons. The skirts were full, floor-length, and fitted over the hips, in line with the prevailing styles.
Underneath the coat, a white shirtwaist was worn. A black neckerchief was added when the collar was unbuttoned, and removed when buttoned up. The hat was a straight-brimmed “sailor” style, made of blue felt for winter and white straw for summer. Hatbands typically displayed “U. S. Naval Reserve,” “U. S. Naval Reserve Force,” or “U. S. Navy,” as seen in period photographs. Black shoes were worn with the blue uniform, and white shoes with the white summer uniform.
The rating badge for a “Yeomanette” Second Class Petty Officer, worn on the blue jacket’s left sleeve, mirrored that of male yeomen: two scarlet chevrons with two white crossed quills in the vee, topped by a white spread eagle. This placement indicated their non-seaman branch status.
The Forestry Green Aviation Uniform: A Pioneer in Naval Aviation Dress
The commander depicted in the original article showcases the forestry green aviation uniform of 1918. This uniform was a formalization of the unofficial attire adopted by naval aviators starting in 1912-1913, reflecting the unique needs of this burgeoning branch.
The first official recognition came with Change 11 on June 22, 1917, shortly after the US entered WWI. This prescribed a khaki uniform, similar to the existing one, but with drab wool leggings instead of leather puttees, aligning it with the Marine Corps field uniform. To address cold weather conditions, Change 12 (September 1917) authorized the use of Marine Corps forestry green wool cloth.
Change 18 (April 1918) standardized forestry green for both summer and winter uniforms, using lighter cloth for warm weather and wool for winter. Two bellows pockets were added below the waist on the coat, and leather puttees were re-authorized. Officer rank was indicated by shoulder marks identical to those on the white service coat, with the commander displaying three gold lace stripes and a gold star. Flexible shoulder marks were also authorized for wear on khaki shirts when flying without coats, ensuring rank recognition if captured. The cap cover was forestry green, and the visor featured gold embroidered oak leaves and acorns, signifying a commander or captain rank. Leather flight coats, though not uniform components, were issued as essential flight gear.
Image alt text: US Navy Commander in forestry green aviation uniform, highlighting the specialized dress for naval aviators during World War 1.
Naval Reserve Officer Uniform: Distinguishing Reserve Service
The lieutenant commander in the article is shown wearing the blue service uniform, a style that remained standard for officers until the introduction of the double-breasted sack coat after World War I. His affiliation with the Naval Reserve Force is indicated by a specific Naval Reserve device on the standing collar, behind the gold oak leaf denoting his rank, replacing the Regular Navy’s foul anchor.
This device, introduced by Change 10 in January 1917, was a metal insignia resembling the officer’s cap device, but smaller. Naval Reserve officers also wore a unique button instead of the Regular Navy’s gilt eagle buttons. This button featured a plain vertical anchor with “U.S.” above the stock and “N.R.” flanking the stock below.
Sleeve lace for a lieutenant commander, consisting of two half-inch gold stripes with a quarter-inch stripe between, was identical to that of the Regular Navy. The gold star above the lace denoted a Line officer, and aviator wings on the left breast indicated his qualification as a naval aviator.
Khaki Uniform and Early Aviation Wings
The lieutenant in the image is depicted in the summer khaki uniform from June 1917, paired with wrap leggings considered unsatisfactory at the time. The coat’s cut mirrored the white service coat, featuring only upper breast pockets, as lower bellows pockets were not introduced until 1918.
Early aviator wings were first described in Change 12 (September 1917) as “…a winged foul anchor with the letters ‘U.S.'”. However, this design was short-lived, as Change 14 (October 1917) removed the “U.S.” and incorporated a shield with vertical stripes and a plain field mounted on the anchor, which became the enduring symbol of a naval aviator.
The khaki cap is shown without a grommet, a practice that began in World War I and continued in certain contexts. Despite uniform modifications during the war, officers were permitted to wear older styles if serviceable, until the aviation dress was abolished in 1923.
Image alt text: US Navy Lieutenant in summer khaki uniform, showcasing the evolution of aviator wings and early uniform adaptations during WW1.
Dungarees: The Working Uniform
Prior to 1913, the dungaree suit was the sole authorized “working” uniform. Its wear was restricted to officers and enlisted personnel in the engineer force or gun turrets on cruising vessels, submarines, and torpedo boats, and only in areas where standard uniforms were likely to be soiled. The original dungaree suit consisted of a blue denim pull-over jumper and trousers.
Change 17 (March 1918) replaced the jumper with a single-breasted, five-button coat, offering a more appropriate garment for personnel moving between work areas and other parts of the ship. No provisions were made for displaying officer rank or enlisted ratings on dungaree suits.
This uniform change also introduced new specialty marks for enlisted aviation personnel. The rapid growth of naval aviation created a demand for specialized skills and ratings, leading to a robust training program. Aviation specialists were classified under existing ratings like quartermaster, carpenter’s mate, and machinist’s mate, distinguished by winged versions of their respective devices. For instance, an aviation quartermaster displayed a ship’s wheel with wings, while aviation machinists showed a winged two-bladed airplane propeller. Aviation apprentices were identified by an apprentice badge featuring an eagle perched on a carrick bend knot.
The Evolution of White and Evening Dress Uniforms
The introduction of white and evening dress uniforms for US Navy officers was a gradual process. While enlisted men had white uniforms early in naval history, officers were initially restricted. A white drill jacket was permitted in the tropics in 1852 as service dress at sea (except at general muster or when in charge of the deck). Lightweight blue coats or jackets with white trousers were also allowed for warm weather. Finally, in 1883, a white uniform was authorized for general wear in service dress conditions, ashore or afloat.
For evening dress, a blue uniform was authorized in 1866, modeled after civilian full dress coats, with rank and corps insignia on the collar. By 1897, the evening full dress coat included sleeve lace and shoulder ornaments. Post-Spanish-American War, with increased duty in warmer climates, a white mess jacket was authorized in 1901. This mess jacket, worn with full dress laced trousers for dinner dress or blue/white trousers for mess dress, is exemplified by the Assistant Paymaster in the article.
Image alt text: Assistant Paymaster in 1913 mess jacket, demonstrating the US Navy’s formal evening wear during the WW1 era.
The 1913 mess jacket featured two medium gilt Navy buttons on each side, fastened at the waist by two buttons connected by a ring. Non-rigid shoulder marks, introduced in 1899, displayed rank and corps. The shirt was plain white, starched, with gold studs, worn with a period bow tie and stiff standing collar. A white waistcoat with a rolling collar and small gilt Navy buttons completed the ensemble. Plain blue high-waisted trousers, close-fitting and without pockets (except watch pockets), and patent leather black shoes were worn with mess dress. Notably, gold laced trousers were not permitted with the white mess jacket under 1913 regulations. A white-covered officer’s cap was specified for mess dress.
Women’s White Uniform and Variations
“Women of the Naval Reserve Force” were issued both white and blue uniforms of identical cut – the Norfolk type coat with pleats and a wide cloth belt. In warm weather, the shirtwaist collar was often unbuttoned, and a black neckerchief was worn. Shirtwaist buttons were plain white pearl. The full white skirt, as illustrated in Change 15, was intended to have pockets on both sides, though photographs often show pockets only on the left. The white straw hat featured a black ribbon band with “U.S. Navy” in gold. While enlisted Naval Reservists were instructed to have “Naval Reserve Force” on cap ribbons, “Yeomanettes” are pictured with “U.S. Navy” and “U.S. Naval Reserve” on their hats as well. No rating badge was worn on the shirtwaist sleeves when the coat was removed. However, on both blue and white coats, a Third Class Petty Officer Yeoman (F) would display a single chevron, spread eagle, and crossed quills. White canvas or buckskin shoes were worn with the white uniform.
The White Service Uniform: A Foundation of Modern Naval Dress
The white service uniform, as worn by the commander in the image, originated in 1883. Initially tailored like the single-breasted blue service coat of 1877, it featured white braid trim. By 1897, shoulder straps indicated both grade and corps. General Order No. 48 (June 1901) revised the coat to a single-breasted style with five large gilt Navy buttons and a plain standing collar. Shoulder marks, introduced in 1899, displayed grade and corps. The 1901 white service coat is the basis for the modern version.
The commander in the 1913 white service uniform displays shoulder marks with three gold lace stripes and a gold star. The 1913 cap design had a less pronounced overhang compared to today’s caps. Embroidered oak leaves and acorns denoted a Line officer of captain or commander rank. White trousers and white canvas or buckskin shoes completed the uniform.
Image alt text: US Navy Commander in white service uniform, showcasing a foundational style that influenced modern naval officer dress.
The Navy Nurse Uniform: Distinctive and Practical
The Navy Nurse is depicted in a white ward uniform: shirtwaist, full starched skirt, white stockings and shoes, and a white cap. A key distinguishing feature from civilian nurses was the Navy Nurse Corps insignia on either side of the open shirtwaist collar. Towards the end of WWI, this insignia was a gold foul anchor with a gold oak leaf and acorn, topped by “N.N.C.” in silver. The white cap, lacking rank indicators, resembled those worn by many civilian nurses of the time.
Image alt text: Navy Nurse in white ward uniform, highlighting the practical and recognizable dress of Navy nurses during World War One.
Enlisted Seaman’s White Dress Uniform: A Classic Design
The Third Class Seaman’s white dress uniform, as described, bore similarities to the 1840 Uniform Regulations, particularly in the blue cloth facing on the collar and cuffs. The 1913 regulations specified blue flannel facings for the white dress jumper’s collar and cuffs, while undress whites omitted these facings. The white dress jumper for all enlisted men had three rows of white tape on the collar, but cuff tape varied by rank. Petty officers had three rows; Second Class seamen, hospital apprentices, baker and Third/Fourth Class ship’s cooks had two; and Third Class seamen and mess attendants had one stripe in the cuff center. The white jumper was loose-fitting, not waist-gathered. White trousers, cut like blue trousers but with a fly front instead of a drop fall, completed the uniform, along with a black neckerchief (omitted in undress whites), a white cotton drill hat, and black shoes.
Conclusion: Uniforms as a Reflection of a Changing Navy
The WW1 US Navy uniform landscape was diverse and evolving, reflecting the Navy’s rapid expansion, technological advancements, and changing social roles. From the functional dungarees to the formal mess dress, and from the pioneering aviation uniforms to the distinctive “Yeomanette” attire, each uniform style tells a story of a navy adapting to the demands of modern warfare. These uniforms not only served practical purposes but also symbolized the identity, rank, and specialization of the individuals who wore them, contributing to the rich history and tradition of the United States Navy.
